harness, and general damage to the harness has not
(1) Wash battery by flushing freely with water.
occurred, as would be the case if one wire burned, repair as
Use brush if necessary to remove crusted deposits.
follows: a. Disconnect defective wire at both ends and clip
Brush terminal posts to bright finish without removing
off where it enters harness.
b. Select suitable length of correct gage and type wire
(2) Wash battery cables in hot water to remove
dirt and corrosion. Wire brush inside of battery terminals
c. Install wire terminals, equivalent to those used on the
to bright finish.
original wire, dress the replacement wire neatly along the
outside of the loom parallel to the original wire (tie with
c. Installation. Reverse a above. Tighten battery
lightweight cord at four inch intervals) and connect new wire.
strap nuts only tightly enough to hold battery snugly. do
not overtighten .
(1) Remove screws from corners of radiator cover
(1) Remove cell caps, and test specific gravity of
plate and raise cover plate for access to taillight wiring and
electrolyte in each cell with battery hydrometer. All cells
should read within 10 points of each other. Reading of
1.280 indicates full charge; 1.220 indicates about 50%
(2) Disconnect wiring by unplugging leads at
charged; 1.160 indicates practically complete discharge.
Variations in readings among cells indicate the low
reading cells are defective, and battery must be
(3) Remove nut and washer securing taillight
assembly and remove taillight assembly from radiator cover
b. Disassembly. Remove screws securing lens and remove
Readings above apply at electrolyte
lens and gasket from housing. Remove lamp by pressing it
temperature of 80 deg F.
down into socket and turning it to left until it can be lifted
temperatures, add .004 to reading for each 10
deg F above 80 deg F; subtract .004 from
actual reading for each 10 deg F below 80
STOP LIGHT SWITCH
deg to obtain value for comparison with
figures given in (1) above. Also see figure 5-
a. Disconnect electrical lead or leads at unit to be removed.
(2) With fully charged battery installed, test
cables and connections as follows:
Before removing engine temperature transmitter
drain enough coolant to bring level' below tapped
(a) Contact positive battery post (do not touch cable
mounting hole. Before removing any of the units
terminal) with positive lead of voltmeter calibrated in
tenths of a volt. Contact negative voltmeter lead to
listed, for replacement, have the replacement unit
starter terminal of starter.
ready for immediate installation.
(b) Crank engine. Note voltmeter reading while
cranking. Any reading in excess of 0.2 volt indicates
b. Unscrew hourmeter switch, engine oil pressure
electrical resistance due to a bad cable or connection.
transmitter, engine temperature transmitter or stop light
(c) Repeat (a) and (b), except contact ground on
switch as required. None of these units is subject to
engine with voltmeter positive lead, and voltmeter
disassembly or repair.
negative lead touching battery negative post. Voltmeter
reading greater than 0.2 volt indicates bad cable or
FUEL GAGE TRANSMITTER REMOVAL a.
Remove five screws and washers from flange of transmitter
atop fuel tank. Remove gasket. The transmitter is not
6-44. WIRING HARNESS. Repair of the wiring harness
subject to disassembly.
is limited to isolating shorted and open circuits and using
good commercial practice in their repair. Refer to the
6-48. NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH REMOVAL.
wiring diagram (figure 6-20) and conduct a systematic
Disconnect two electrical leads at switch. Remove two
inspection using an ohmmeter to isolate the trouble.
screws, nuts and washers attaching switch to truck, and
take switch and its mounting insulator from truck. The
Remedy the trouble by splicing leads where required and
neutral safety switch is not a reparable item. Replace a
applying electrical tape to prevent short circuits from
occurring. If failure occurs in one of the wires in the